Tag Archives: Anegundi

Rolling with the stones in Hampi

The lotus is India’s national flower but it doesn’t always enjoy a good rep. Last month, over three days at Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace in the town of Kamalapurs, four kilometres from Hampi, I learned to appreciate the flower beyond its edible roots and party affiliations.

At the resort, the flower isn’t used as decoration but finds new applications. It is in air fresheners and body care products. It also inspires the shape of lampshades dotting the ceilings. The fragrance follows me everywhere, like a shadow, pleasant but excessive. Where the flower shows its true splendour is the Lotus Mahal. This two-storey pink palace houses an Ayurvedic spa, a reading room, a restaurant and a souvenir shop. A replica of the actual Lotus Mahal in Hampi, the archways and the domes are meant to resemble a half-opened lotus, with the towers resembling petals. All lit up at night, the Lotus Mahal gives a sense of the grandeur that defined the queen’s summer place of yore.

Stoned on History

The lotus may be the symbolic theme of the Kamalapura Palace but its architectural theme is Hampi, in all its stone-laden glory.

The resort is a fortress, situated in the centre of a 27-acre property, surrounded by cultivated greenery. I drive through the entrance with rounded fortifications reminiscent of Islamic architecture, inspired by the principal fort of the nearby village Anegundi. A long stone driveway—much like the paved boulevards of Hampi’s old temples—leads me to the main palace.

As I walk around the place in the evening, Joydeep Banerjee, the Area General Manager for the South, points out the connections we may have missed—the contemporary recreations of old paintings, the boundary walls modelled after the stone walls that provided the fortifications to the city, and the taps shaped like aqueducts. Everything here is local and customised, keeping Hampi in mind.

It’s not just about employing local staff and artistes; even their food seeks inspiration from the land. Tuluva, with its infinity pool and fake elephant tusks, gets its name from the Hindu dynasty that ruled the Vijayanagara Empire. Here, I sample among other Indian dishes, Vijayanagara cuisine that’s heavy on curries and liberal with spices. There’s gongura mamsam (spicy lamb curry), chepala pulusu (tangy fish curry) and enagayi (eggplant cooked in coconut). I scarf these down with bowls upon bowls of the fragrant and delicately flavoured pulihora (tamarind rice). History might have swallowed whole emperors, but it had thankfully spared their cuisine.

Mind at Rest

Hampi city is shaped by multiple histories. I spend my mornings visiting a fraction of its 300 temples and ruins. There’s the Hemakuta hillock, which leads down to the Virupaksha Temple. There we find the stone chariot, one of the most photographed structures in Hampi. My guide is Nagendra, who tells me to observe the little things we miss in our haste to get that perfect shot for social media. “The lotus shape indicates progress of life, and feminity,” he says, pointing out the swans and dancing figures painted on the ceiling. I visit the Zenana Enclosure, a citadel complex that once housed a palace, the Lotus Mahal, four watchtowers and beyond, the elephant stables.

I return to the resort, marvelling at the inspiration it has sought from this city. My room is the Jal Mahal, a stunning place inspired by the Water Palace of the Zenana Enclosure. It has separate dining, living and sleeping areas, and a luxurious bath with an open courtyard. This is surrounded by a moat in the front, and behind, a private deck with a mandapa overlooks a private pool.

Jal-Mahal-Bedroom

Jal Mahal suite. Photo courtesy: Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace

As impressive as the resort looks in the daytime, it turns resplendent at night. The sun sets behind the palace, bathing the sky in hues of scarlet, orange and purple. As it sinks, the small lamps in the grounds of the property come on. The sound of crickets is overshadowed by a gentle singing. This is the hotel’s annual evening ritual—the staff move about behind a flautist, carrying incense and lights to all the rooms, while the tune of the flute lends the dusk a haunting background melody. After this procession, the flautist proceeds to the open courtyard where he sits and performs an evening raga.

I welcome our evenings in different ways. One time, I lounge in the pool till sunset; another time, I spend a few hours looking up Hampi’s history in the library at the Reading Lounge. On the last night, I sit by our moat, sipping chai and watching workers tending the garden. At dusk, I head to the Deep Mahal for a storytelling session. An entire room is lit up with just diyas. For the next half hour, I sip wine and listen, fascinated, as my guide talks about the downfall of the Vijayanagara Empire.

—————-

Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace is in Kamalapura town, 4 km away from Hampi. There are four types of suites—Nivasa, Nilaya, Zenana and the Jal Mahal—with rates starting from Rs36,000 up to Rs52,000.

From Bengaluru airport, the resort lies 350 km northwest. There are also direct flights from Hyderabad to Vidyanagar airport, 30 km away.

 

[This story first appeared in National Geographic Traveller India: Rolling with the stones, on Jan 11, 2018]

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History lessons in Anegundi

It has rained the night before. The smell of wet earth rises above the ground, mingling with the light breeze. The village is a splash of colour, painted walls of houses and tiny shops with garish boards out front advertising their wares. Animals and humans mingle with abandon. Away from the signs of inhabitation, it’s a long stretch of lush paddy fields, coconut trees, and an unchanging background of boulders. There are a few mantapas too, broken in places but still standing strong.    

This is Anegundi, once the capital of the Vijaynagara Empire and often called the cradle of the empire. Anegundi translates to elephant pit in Kannada, because it was where the elephants of Vijayanagara Empire were bathed. The village often loses out in popularity to its neighbour, Hampi. A pity because Anegundi is older; its history goes back 3,000 years.  

Anegundi is surrounded by hills on three sides, and the river Tungabadhra on one side. To get a glimpse of its past, I’ve to travel across a relatively new construction, the 14-pillar, 32-crore Hampi-Anegundi Bridge. It’s a smooth ride though without the charm associated with the usual mode of transportation, a coracle ride.

The first thing that arrests my attention is a man decked in gold. A closer look reveals the actor Rajkumar. It’s supposed to be Krishnadevaraya but it is modeled on the actor who played the king in a movie.

Behind him is the main gate of the city, Modalane Bagilu (First Gate).  On entering the gate, my first stop is Gagan Mahal or Old Palace, which was built in the 16th century. It was where the royal family once lived and today serves as an administrative building. It is shut when I visit so I wander outside, admiring the Indo-Islamic architecture and its similarity to the Lotus Mahal in Hampi. Nearby is a banana fibre workshop run by the Kishkinda Trust. They teach women in the village to use the bark of the banana plant to make rope, which is then woven into runners, carpets, mats, bags, tablecloths and even coasters. It’s interesting to watch the women at work, their hands moving as if of their own accord while they chat quietly among themselves.  

banana fibre workshop

Everything I discover in Anegundi is deserving of attention but doesn’t outright seek it.    

Keeping watch on my movements in the village is the Anjaneya or Anjanadri Hill. If Anegundi is believed to be the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha, then Anjanadri is believed to be the birth place of Hanuman. The hill is accessible by steps and is home to a temple. It’s a good location from which to view the ruins in Hampi. Another guardian on high is the Anegundi fort, which now serves as design inspiration to luxury hotels like Evolve Back nearby.

Anjanadri hill 1

Anjanadri Hill

The Bukka aqueduct is another architectural marvel, a bridge like aqueduct standing over a nearly dry stream. The granite structure, which consists of slabs of stone piled high, speaks of the irrigation system of the Vijayanagara rulers, which kept the lands fertile and supplied water to the many palaces. The Sanapur Lake is a more recent water attraction, created by an irrigation reservoir, and best experienced via a coracle ride. It has sweeping views of banana and rice plantations on one side, and boulder-strewn hills on the other.  

It is amid these hills that I come across the oldest structure in the area. A few kilometres away from Anegundi is the pre-historic site of Onake Kindi. The naturally secluded area – there’s a ring of boulders enclosing an expanse of shrubbery and trees – is home to rock paintings dating back to the Iron Age. The white and pink paintings showcase the life of those times – a funeral procession, sun and stars, animals, dances and hunting scenes. There’s even a long cobra, with a realistic hood that looks ready to strike.    

It appears that people in the olden days wanted to share their lives with us, through their art. Anegundi is where these stories come to life.